Ruby Style Guide

The red ruby is the second most popular colored gemstone. The name of this gem comes from the Latin word for red, ruber. The ruby is a mineral made up of aluminum oxide and chromium in a repeating crystal matrix (Al2O3:Cr). The name for this type of mineral containing aluminum oxide is corundum. The other gem with a corundum matrix is the sapphire.

Rubies were mined for centuries in Burma (now called Myanmar), which was the producer of the majority of these gems. Other historic producers in Southeast Asia are Thailand and Cambodia. Other regions where rubies are mined today include Madagascar, Nepal, Pakistan, Colombia, India, Namibia, Afghanistan, Vietnam, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Australia, Brazil, and Scotland. Rubies have even been found in the USA in the states of Wyoming and Montana as well as both North and South Carolina.

The ruby is the gem for the 40th anniversary.

Rubies are commonly used in earrings and rings set in white and yellow gold. The typical cuts for a ruby are round and oval. Unlike diamonds, there is no standardized grading system. Nevertheless, the most important factors are like those for the diamond which are size, color, cut, and clarity. Color is considered the most important factor and a deep red is the most valuable.

Ruby Shape

Although rubies come in all shapes, some shapes are better at emphasizing the red of the gem. The most popular shape is round. Accent rubies in wedding bands, solitaire rings, and earrings typically use the round shape. Ovals are the most popular with cutters. This is because an oval cut reduces waste and often is better to draw out the deep red color of the stone. Next in popularity are the octagon or emerald shape and the heart shape. For especially large rubies larger than 1.0 carats, the cushion shape is more commonly used. Smaller rubies around 0.30 carat and less than 4 mm length are usually cut in Princess square shape.

The reason round rubies have the best sparkles is that their faceting enhances the reflection of the gem. It is important that a round ruby have a deeper color because of its reflective properties. For other so-called fancy shapes, the color of the ruby is more important than its sparkle.

Rubies Size Chart

While diamonds are measured in carat weight, rubies are usually compared by size. A 1.00 carat ruby measured about 6 mm across while the same weight diamond measures about 6.4 mm.

In cutting rubies from the rough stone it is important to retain weight and size. Thus rubies are often cut in different shapes more often than happens with diamonds. Unlike with diamonds, there is no standardized number or arrangement of facets. The larger a ruby and the deeper red its color, the more expensive it is. And, as the size of the ruby increases step by step the price multiplies.

These are typical sizes in millimeters for rubies of varying carat weight.

What color is a Ruby

The ruby color is its most important feature. And, while a white diamond is more valuable the less color it has, a ruby valued for its color. There are three factors used in judging ruby color. These are hue, tone, and saturation.

• Hue is how red the ruby is as opposed to drifting off to other parts of the color spectrum.

• The tone of the ruby is its depth of color varying from very deep red to shades of pink.

• Saturation is how evenly color is distributed within the ruby.

The best rubies are the purest and most vibrant red with good depth of color and with that color evenly distributed throughout the gem.

A deep red color is valuable in a ruby for two reasons. First of all, the color is attractive. Second, the deep color hides inclusions or imperfections in the gem. Judging a ruby does not require ten power magnification like with diamonds. Simply hold the ruby against a white surface and tilt it back and forth while observing the color.

Rubies are not graded for color on a scale like diamonds. Rather the Gemological Institute of America uses master stones for comparison to determine if a gem is a red ruby or a variety pink, orange, or yellow sapphire.

The price of the ruby goes up with a vibrant red color and even distribution of that color throughout the gem. Tone, hue, and saturation are all combined to characterize and determine a price for a ruby.

Clarity of a Ruby

The content of the ruby is corundum which is aluminum oxide. When other elements such as chromium are mixed in, the red color is produced. Rubies are formed under heat and pressure within the earth. However, their basic material comes from limestone deposits that are pulled back into the earth as continents collide. The defects that occur within a ruby primarily come from how the stone crystallizes perfectly or imperfectly with inclusions of foreign material and the occurrence of fractures.

The inclusions seen in rubies are called crystals, pinpoints, feathers, clouds, and needles. More inclusions reduce the strength and purity of a ruby’s color. Larger inclusions will be obviously white or pink within an otherwise deep red gem. With fewer inclusions, a ruby displays bright and even color. We only carry rubies with minimal inclusions in our stock.

To grade for inclusions the gemologist places the ruby face up and examines it without magnification. The issue is not so much the precise kind of inclusions but rather how the sum of all of the inclusions affects color and overall appearance.

Clarity has the same effect on price as color. Better clarity means a more expensive gem.

Sourcing Rubies

Our rubies come from Australia, Madagascar, Thailand, and Myanmar. Our choice of suppliers is based on the fact that they are committed to community development and do not deal in conflict gems.

The ruby industry generates income for the communities where mines and processing facilities are located. We support suppliers who give back to the community with infrastructure improvements, schools, hospitals, and community centers as well as providing decent well-paying jobs. We know this because we have visited mine locations many times.

Rubies are rarely used as a conflict gem because they are rarer than diamonds. Those who want to avoid buying a conflict gem can choose a ruby instead of a diamond.

Ruby Certification

As a rule, gemstones of color are not certified. That is because gems like the ruby have no standardized scale on which to grade them.

When a ruby is sent for examination, it can be discovered if the ruby has been subject to various treatments and whether the gem is natural or was manufactured in a laboratory.

We carry only natural rubies. Our gemologists examine each and every one of our rubies to verify that they are natural gems and have not been treated.

If you want your ruby examined and graded so far as rubies are graded, consider GIA, AGS, or AGL. For any ruby above 2.00 carats, this is a good idea. A cost-effective alternative is to have a certified gem appraiser examine and certify your ruby. If you choose to have one of the main laboratories examine your ruby they can tell you the country of origin. This may be useful with a ruby from Myanmar where rubies typically have strong color qualities that make the gems more valuable.

Synthetic rubies are not as attractive as natural stones. Even when a natural ruby has inclusions they add to the uniqueness of the gem.

Treatment of Rubies

A standard practice is to heat a ruby to a high temperature. This treatment improves the depth of color of the gem. But, there are other treatments that a ruby may have been exposed to. By in large these cause problems.

We do not carry rubies that have been subjected to oiling, dying, bleaching, waxing, irradiation, laser drilling, or glass filling. Lead and glass filling cause structural problems in the ruby over the long run.

And, natural rubies that are untreated can be much more valuable than treated ones up to a factor of ten. We check each and every ruby for evidence of treatments other than heating.

Ruby Buying Guide

There is no standard certification of rubies by characteristics and grades. This is different than when you buy a diamond and have almost too much certification detail to consider. Here are a few useful suggestions.

Budget

Decide on a price you are willing to pay. You can shop around or check prices online to know where to start. Then stay within your budget. Because color is more of a price factor than size, focus on color first of all and size next.

Ruby Shape

Shape is the first thing to consider when you start shopping for a ruby. Popular shapes are round or oval, princess or square, and rubies shaped like a heart. Round shapes are a bit more expensive because there is more wasted material when cutting them.

Ruby Size

You will pay for rubies by size in millimeters and not by carat. Use millimeters as a guide when buying in the store. And, when buying online, make a drawing of what you want, with sizes, for a reference. As the size of a ruby increases step by step expect the price to multiply.

Ruby Quality

If you want to be happy with your purchase, focus on quality first and foremost. AAA high-quality rubies are your best bet. If you buy a ruby of lower quality it will appear dull and flat or even overly dark. When you choose an AAA rated stone you will avoid color and clarity issues.

Natural Ruby

They can make rubies in the lab. Despite improving technology, you can the difference between a natural and an “unnatural” synthetic ruby. A natural ruby from deep in the earth with flaws included is a lifetime treasure like a piece of fine art.

Buy in the Store or Online

When you buy a ruby in the jewelry store you get to see it and hold it before making the purchase. When you buy online you get a discount on the jewelry store price. In both cases, check out their return policy before making the purchase.

The online store probably has more rubies available. The jeweler can answer your questions on the spot and give you good advice about issues you had not thought of.

If you go to a jewelry store you may know someone who has dealt with them before. In the case of an online store make sure to check them out for legitimacy before your purchase.

In both cases, make sure that any returns are not charged a re-stocking fee.

And make sure to ask about treatments that the gem has had. And when viewing a ruby in the store make sure to look closely to see if inclusions cause any obvious problems for you.

If you are buying online make sure there are clear and accurate images.